Fall Lawn Planting

Just about anyone who has talked to us at The Rock Pile about planting grass seed will have heard us say that fall is the best time. So, for all of you have been waiting for fall to arrive to set your lawn in order, here is some advice.

We don’t have fabulous soil here in northern Ohio meaning you will likely need to fertilize prior to or just after seeding. Most lawns are lacking in phosphorus (the middle number on fertilizer labels), which needs to be corrected to encourage a healthy lawn. You can have your soil tested to pinpoint the specific needs of your lawn. You may also need to add lime, depending on the pH level of your soil. You should definitely test your soil before adding lime, as too much lime is worse than too little. The starter fertilizer should be raked lightly into the soil. The Rock Pile carries several fertilizers appropriate for new lawn. If you are leveling low spots or want to apply a layer of new soil in your yard, our Premium Blended Topsoil is excellent. We start with soil that is already rich in organic matter and has not been used for farming, thereby avoiding chemicals and nutrient depletion. We add compost, organic matter and sand and violà! we have the wonderful soil people love!

The ideal planting time for lawns in Northern Ohio is August 15th to the end of September. Winter seeding (dormant seeding) would take place after November 15th and would not germinate until the following spring. Planting the lawn in fall greatly reduces the invasion of summer annual weeds since the lawn is able to develop more fully before spring weed seeds germinate.

Sow the seed at the rate recommended for the seed type you have chosen. It is best to use a spreader, making at least two passes in different directions. Rake the soil lightly over the seed, covering it about .1 to .3 inches deep. If you can’t see any seed at all, you’ve probably covered it a bit too deeply.

Now we come to the controversial part of seeding a lawn. If you want to start an argument, shout “straw or sphagnum peat moss?” in a room full of garden center experts. I am personally in the camp of using peat moss or our Premium Topsoil. Peat moss covers nicely, hold moisture incredibly well, doesn’t leave you with anything to rake up and looks all neat and smooth. Others are ardent fans of straw. Applied properly (not too thick!), they say it provides great moisture retention and protection from birds. One of the things I do like about straw is that nothing says to the neighbors, ‘don’t worry, I’m aware my lawn looks awful and I’m working on it’ better than a fresh carpet of straw. (It also screams, ‘hey…don’t walk on me! Baby grass incubating here!’)

An important note on seeding a lawn: you must keep the soil moist. That means frequent watering. You should water properly twice a day, every day. After all the effort already put forth, it is depressing to have to do it again for lack of proper watering.

Mow your baby grass for the first time when it reaches 3 inches high. Just take a little off the top (mow to a height of 2 inches). An additional application of starter fertilizer about a month after seeding helps your new grass to better establish itself. Water immediately after application. Stay away from weed control fertilizers until your lawn has been mowed at least 3 times.