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Turkey Vultures are large birds, with a wingspan of 63- 72 inches and weighing in at 1.5-5 pounds. The females are slightly larger than the males, but otherwise the sexes look alike. Both have the tell-tale featherless red head, dark body feathers, gray underside wing-tip feathers, and a vicious-looking hooked pale beak. Vultures have no septum separating their nostrils, so it’s possible to look in to one nostril and see straight through the beak. Generally considered one of the least charismatic avians, turkey vultures are actually very gentle and exceedingly non-aggressive. (Potentially this results from having few natural predators and not having to hunt and kill to eat.) In the air, you can spot a vulture by its flight pattern. Their upswept wings are held in a V-shape as they glide on thermal air currents. (This is unlike eagles and hawks, which tend to soar on flat wings, or crows, which flap their wings frequently.) Contrary to popular belief, circling vultures do not necessarily indicate the presence of a dead animal. Circling vultures may be gaining altitude for long flights, searching for food, or playing. On or near the ground, you’ll often see vultures adopting the “horaltic pose” with wings spread wide, looking quite fierce. Research into this behavior suggests that vultures may be absorbing sunlight to return to full temperature after dropping a few energy-saving degrees overnight. Another theory suggests they are airing out their wings. Since vultures can’t sweat, they urinate on their legs when they need to cool off. Additionally, this washes any carrion-carried bacteria off their legs and feet. Turkey vultures also lack the vocal capability of other birds. They hiss when threatened and grunt when they’re courting, or when they’re immature and hungry. Turkey vultures get the bulk of their calories from carrion, using their superior sense of smell to detect the gases produced by the beginning stages of decay. Adaptively speaking, their bald head helps keep vultures clean while sticking their head inside carcasses. They feed their young (2 per year) by regurgitation. While the general belief that vultures “projectile vomit” is mistaken, they do also vomit as a stress response. One theory holds that their unreliable food source forces them to gorge, often to the point of rendering flight impossible. The ability to throw up a token amount not only renders them able to fly away but also frequently distracts the predator, which goes after the meat instead of the vulture. All this clean living puts a vulture’s estimated maximum lifespan at about 21 years, with the oldest on record being a ripe 37 years old!
Isei the Hippogriff by momothecat
Symbolic of “impossibility and love”, this month’s featured bird is a perfect February surprise! The Pale-Bellied Hippogriff is a livestock-sized allegedly mythological avian with the charming head and talons of an eagle, impressively large wings, and the torso and legs of a horse. The Pale-Bellied Hippogriff is often confused with the Griffin, another irruptive species you may see this winter due to a scarcity of chivalric knights in its usual Canadian roosting grounds. In fact, the Hippogriff subspecies arose from the mating of a Griffin and a mare. Don’t be fooled! If the eagle-headed Hippogriff at your feeder has the torso of a lion and seems to be ferociously guarding a pile of gold, then that’s a Griffin. Fortunately, both are omnivorous and will be more than glad to feast upon this month’s featured seed, Black Oil Sunflower Seed! (Unfortunately, if you’ve got a Griffin, they’ll eat it all, not let you near to refill the feeder, and then get cranky…we’ll cover that in another article.) An easy way to remember whether or not you need to move your entire family out of state: “Body of a Horse, Hippogriff of course! Body of a lion, somethin’s a dyin’.”
Now that you’ve positively identified the fantastically rare bird at your feeder as a Hippogriff, you can relax and enjoy the show. You’ll notice the Hippogriff is comfortable eating both directly from the feeder as well as scavenging on the ground for dropped seed. Since the Hippogriff has also been known to impatiently consume the entire feeder, you can use any available feeder you’d like to draw in these fascinating birds. Many of our readers have found significant success with feeders made of old bathtubs, hollowed out cars, rain barrels, and corn silos. But they also enjoy a simple platform feeder, such as our 3-in-1 Platform Feeder (featured below)! As the Hippogriff becomes more comfortable with consuming your entire stock of Black Oil it may use a subtle series of raspy and echoing midnight bellows (lasting typically 3 to 5 days) to communicate the exact location of your yard to its friends. No need to fret, Black Oil is 20% off all month! And Hippogriffs usually migrate to Narnia by April.
Coloring contest! Click here to download:(Entries must be received by February 28, 2013)
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Lawn planting is ideal between August 15th and the end of September, with September being the most ideal since the chances of super-hot weather diminish once August is passed. (Planting? Read this!)
The cooler temperatures and shorter days of fall allow your lawn (and plants) to focus more on root growth than on top growth, creating a greater quantity of deep root mass. The second best time to plant grass seed is in early spring (March), and frankly, the conditions in your yard will vary greatly depending on what the winter was like.
“University research has shown that fall (August or September) and late fall (October, November or December) fertilization is ideal for home lawns. Fertilizations during these times will benefit lawns more than any other practice. Most homeowners place too much emphasis on spring and summer fertilization. Some fertilizer is needed during the spring and summer; however, over-application of fertilizer at these times can cause disease, rapid growth requiring much more frequent mowing and other problems that result in ‘summer lawn nightmares.’ ” http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1191.html
By fertilizing in the fall, you improve the overall health of your lawn by encouraging deep root growth, rather than ‘greening’ up the top. A deeper, healthier root system will be more resistant to disease and drought. Often, the ‘prettiest’ looking lawns are the most fragile, requiring constant watering and fertilization, pest control and disease monitoring because the focus is on the green top growth at the expense of the more important root growth. Slow-release fertilizers will assist root growth.
This is a year-round rule. You should never water to the point of puddling. For new lawns, frequent, light watering is best. Established lawns should be watered about once a week, depending on heat and overall rainfall.
(I just made that up that catchy phrase. Patent pending.)
You should continue to cut your grass until you’ve seen no visible growth for about two weeks. Keep your grass at about 2-3 inches for the winter.
Even though the fall causes us to focus mostly on leaf removal, taking the time to properly care for your lawn this of year will give you a healthier, happier lawn in the spring.
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Time to plant a new lawn or overseed? Here’s the basics.
It’s important to have several inches of good, loose soil for your grass seed to grow in. The healthiest lawns are the ones that have a deep root system. If your soil is packed down and as hard as concrete, you will be disappointed in your new grass growth.
Sow the seed at the rate recommended for the seed type you have chosen. It is best to use a spreader, making at least two passes in different directions. Rake the soil lightly over the seed, covering it about 1/8″ to 1/4″ inches deep. If you can’t see any seed at all, you’ve probably covered it a bit too deeply.
You need to cover your seed. You can use our topsoil, peat moss or straw. There are pros and cons to each medium and sometimes is just boils down to personal preference. I am personally in the camp of using peat moss or our Premium Topsoil. Peat moss covers nicely, hold moisture incredibly well, doesn’t leave you with anything to rake up and looks all neat and smooth. Others are ardent fans of straw. Applied properly (not too thick!), it provides great moisture retention and protection from birds and offers more water diversion during torrential downpours. One of the things I do like about straw is that nothing says to the neighbors, ‘don’t worry, I’m aware my lawn looks awful and I’m working on it’ better than a fresh carpet of straw. (It also screams, ‘hey…don’t walk on me! Baby grass incubating here!’)
Tamp it down. LIGHTLY. You can use a small tamper… again LIGHTLY, an empty water-roller or the flat side of a landscape rake. You want to help settle everything down, not squish it. Lightly tamp.
An important note on seeding a lawn: you must keep the soil moist. That means frequent, light watering. You should water properly twice a day, every day. Do not let your lawn puddle during watering. If you start having puddles, you’re watering for too long.
Mow your baby grass for the first time when it reaches 3 inches high. Just take a little off the top (mow to a height of 2 inches). An additional application of starter fertilizer about a month after seeding helps your new grass to better establish itself. Water immediately after application. Stay away from weed control fertilizers until your lawn has been mowed at least 3 times.
Read: Four things the experts know about fall lawns
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July’s featured bird has a gray head and back with a prominent crest on his head. The gray throat and bright yellow belly extends down to a reddish-brown tail. Eggs will appear to be white or buff with brown markings. A treetop hunter of deciduous forests and suburban areas, the Great Crested Flycatcher is easier to hear than to see. The call of the Great Crested Flycatcher is a a strong rising “wee-eep.” They also have a noisy grating call. To hear the calls press the play button below! This is a common bird of just about any wooded area, it lives high up in the trees rarely coming to the ground. The Flycatcher is aptly named because it feeds by “gleaning” insects from the leaves of trees, but will also eat fruit. Breeding throughout Ohio, this bird stuffs its nest with a collection of fur, feathers, string, snakeskin, small twigs and even trash! Who doesn’t love a bird that eats pesky bugs? See if you can spot one this summer.
Podcast: Play in new window
The very best way to attract birds is to offer them the kinds of foods they would find and consume in nature, and that starts with offering bird-friendly plants.
TREES: Hackberry, White Spruce, White Pine, Red & Sugar Maples, River Birch, Hornbeam, Flowering Crabs, European Spindle Tree (Eastern Wahoo), Pagoda Dogwood, Cornelian Cherry Dogwood, Black Hills Spruce, White Spruce, Colorado Spruce, White Pine, English Oak, Regal Prince Oak, Bald Cypress, Ironwood Tree (Hop-Hornbeam), Norway Spruce, Flowering Dogwoods, Sweet Gum, Black Gum, Sassafras, Chokecherry, Japanese Tree Lilac
SHRUBS: Golden Elderberry, Black Lace Elderberry, Serviceberry, Beauty Berry, Western Arborvitae, Hemlock, Button Bush, Cotoneasters, Vernal & Common Witch-Hazel, Red & Yellow Winterberry, Arrow Wood Viburnum, Nanny Berry Viburnum, Black Haw Viburnum, American Cranberry Bush Viburnum, Red Chokeberry, Summer Sweet, Spice Bush, Bayberry, Barberry, Fragrant Sumac, Snowberry, Cardinal Candy Viburnum, Blue Muffin Viburnum, Witherod Viburnum, Black Haw Viburnum, Michael Dodge Linden Viburnum, Winterthur Viburnum, Molly Schroeder Viburnum, Tea Viburnum, Pink Beauty Viburnum, C.A. Hildebrandt’s Wrightii Viburnum, Blueberries, Junipers, Japanese Yew, Eastern Arborvitae, Gray Dogwood, Stag Horn Sumac, Rose of Sharon, Lead Plant (False Indigo), Hollies
GRASSES: Northern Sea Oats Grass, Dallas Blues Switch Grass, North Wind Switch Grass, Flame Grass, Little Zebra Grass, Little Bluestem Grass
The Rock Pile also carries countless PERENNIALS for attracting songbirds, hummingbirds and butterflies! Check them out for yourself!
Now is the time of year when we can start enjoying our backyards. Unfortunately, it is also the time of year we share our yards with the flying hypodermic needle – the mosquito. We need not surrender to these bloodsuckers. There are ways for us to claim back our yards simply by applying Mosquito Beater to our outdoor areas one hour before it is occupied will help keep it mosquito-free. It comes in a ready-to-use container that will treat up to 4,000 square feet. Best to apply when air movement is light to medium. It is an all-natural product with a pleasant scent. Depending on weather conditions it can last up to 3 weeks. With the wet May we have had, the mosquito population will be large.
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A product for using on mosquitoes before they bite.
Mosquito Dunks are a biological mosquito control that floats on water and will keep on working for 30 days or longer under typical environmental conditions. While floating, they slowly release a long term biological mosquito larvicide which gradually settles in the water where it is eaten by the mosquito larvae growing there. It can be used in all types of containerized standing water sites (except finished, treated drinking water), where mosquito larvae grow.
Use one dunk for up to 100 square feet of water surface, regardless of depth. They can be used whole or broken into portions and applied to containerized standing water found near the home such as:
Animal watering troughs
Bird baths
Flower pots
Rain barrels and roof gutters
Unused swimming pools
Old tires
Water gardens
Tree holes
They can be anchored by using a string tied through the center hold, or they can be staked in place to prevent them from being washed away.
A tropical-looking bird, they arrive late in spring and leave early in autumn. The name “tanager’ comes from a South American Tupi Indian word meaning any small, brightly colored bird. A striking black-winged red bird, the Scarlet Tanager is a common species of the eastern forest interior. Despite its brilliant coloring it is often overlooked because of its rather secretive behavior and its preference for the forest canopy. This beautiful bird will eat insects and spiders, some earthworms, and fruits. If you are lucky, you may catch a glimpse of this amazing summer bird!
Click below to hear the Scarlet Tanager
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Plantskydd was developed in Sweden in 1991 to protect tree plantations being decimated by deer, moose and rabbits -while also meeting strict environmental laws. It is equally effective protecting flowers, fruit trees, gardens, ornamental shrubs, conifer and broad leaf plants. It is now Made in the USA from 100% natural ingredients: dried blood (porcine and/or bovine), vegetable oil and water. Plantskydd repels deer, rabbits, voles, chipmunks, squirrels, opossum, and even elk & moose! For more information stop into the store!
Sweeney’s is a leader in developing safe and effective home pest control products. All Out Deer & Rabbit Repellent provides time released action, is resistance to rain and has minimal order to humans. Gardeners will appreciate the extended effectiveness the time-released formula provides. Additionally, field and lab trials show the repellent is 100 percent effective even after three days of rain. Regular watering won’t wash off the formula either, one of the hassles typically associated with Deer and Rabbit Repell.
All Season Weatherproof Deer Repellent provides all season protection. A single application in the spring protects sprouting plants and new growth for the entire growing season. This repellent is orderless to humans, safe for vegetable gardens, non-toxic and organic and safe to use around children and pets. The repellent is continuously released from repellent station, triggering a deer’s instinct to avoid predator activity. The best part is you only have to apply this product once for an entire season of protection!
At The Rock Pile we have always carried animals repellents for those customers who have issues with Deer, rabbits and other critters getting into their gardens and around their homes. The best way to prevent unwanted animals is to occasionally rotate the repellents you use. That way, these pests won’t get used to a particular product.
100% Chicken Manure
Now in, Chickity Doo Doo! Now just $11.99 for a 25 pound Bag. CLICK HERE to learn more about this new product!
Welcome to the new Rock Pile website. We are still under heavy construction and we apologize for any inconvenience. Thank you for your patience. Please email rockpileweb [at] therockpile [dot] com with any issues.
Please email me with any questions or problems.
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