Sep 112012
 

1. Fall is the BEST time to plant new lawns or overseed.

Lawn planting is ideal between August 15th and the end of September, with September being the most ideal since the chances of super-hot weather diminish once August is passed. (Planting? Read this!)

The cooler temperatures and shorter days of fall allow your lawn (and plants) to focus more on root growth than on top growth, creating a greater quantity of deep root mass. The second best time to plant grass seed is in early spring (March), and frankly, the conditions in your yard will vary greatly depending on what the winter was like.

2. It’s more important to fertilize in fall than it is in Spring.

“University research has shown that fall (August or September) and late fall (October, November or December) fertilization is ideal for home lawns. Fertilizations during these times will benefit lawns more than any other practice. Most homeowners place too much emphasis on spring and summer fertilization. Some fertilizer is needed during the spring and summer; however, over-application of fertilizer at these times can cause disease, rapid growth requiring much more frequent mowing and other problems that result in ‘summer lawn nightmares.’ ” http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1191.html

By fertilizing in the fall, you improve the overall health of your lawn by encouraging deep root growth, rather than ‘greening’ up the top. A deeper, healthier root system will be more resistant to disease and drought. Often, the ‘prettiest’ looking lawns are the most fragile, requiring constant watering and fertilization, pest control and disease monitoring because the focus is on the green top growth at the expense of the more important root growth. Slow-release fertilizers will assist root growth.

3. Don’t over-water.

This is a year-round rule. You should never water to the point of puddling. For new lawns, frequent, light watering is best. Established lawns should be watered about once a week, depending on heat and overall rainfall.

4. Keep mowing till it’s done growing.

(I just made that up that catchy phrase. Patent pending.)
You should continue to cut your grass until you’ve seen no visible growth for about two weeks. Keep your grass at about 2-3 inches for the winter.

Even though the fall causes us to focus mostly on leaf removal, taking the time to properly care for your lawn this of year will give you a healthier, happier lawn in the spring.

 

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Sep 112012
 


Time to plant a new lawn or overseed? Here’s the basics.

The soil.

It’s important to have several inches of good, loose soil for your grass seed to grow in. The healthiest lawns are the ones that have a deep root system. If your soil is packed down and as hard as concrete, you will be disappointed in your new grass growth.

The seed.

Sow the seed at the rate recommended for the seed type you have chosen. It is best to use a spreader, making at least two passes in different directions. Rake the soil lightly over the seed, covering it about 1/8″ to 1/4″ inches deep. If you can’t see any seed at all, you’ve probably covered it a bit too deeply.

The cover.

You need to cover your seed. You can use our topsoil, peat moss or straw. There are pros and cons to each medium and sometimes is just boils down to personal preference. I am personally in the camp of using peat moss or our Premium Topsoil. Peat moss covers nicely, hold moisture incredibly well, doesn’t leave you with anything to rake up and looks all neat and smooth. Others are ardent fans of straw. Applied properly (not too thick!), it provides great moisture retention and protection from birds and offers more water diversion during torrential downpours. One of the things I do like about straw is that nothing says to the neighbors, ‘don’t worry, I’m aware my lawn looks awful and I’m working on it’ better than a fresh carpet of straw. (It also screams, ‘hey…don’t walk on me! Baby grass incubating here!’)

Tamp it down. LIGHTLY. You can use a small tamper… again LIGHTLY, an empty water-roller or the flat side of a landscape rake. You want to help settle everything down, not squish it. Lightly tamp.

The water.

An important note on seeding a lawn: you must keep the soil moist. That means frequent, light watering. You should water properly twice a day, every day. Do not let your lawn puddle during watering. If you start having puddles, you’re watering for too long.

The grass.

Mow your baby grass for the first time when it reaches 3 inches high. Just take a little off the top (mow to a height of 2 inches). An additional application of starter fertilizer about a month after seeding helps your new grass to better establish itself. Water immediately after application. Stay away from weed control fertilizers until your lawn has been mowed at least 3 times.

Read: Four things the experts know about fall lawns

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Apr 082011
 

Think spring. What do you think of? I think of warmer weather, rain and all kinds of plants beginning to push through the ground. And since this will be happening soon, there is one precaution you should take before it’s too late for your plants. Use plant supports. Spring staking is always easier and better for your garden plants. Some plants can stand on their own. Others need a helping hand in the form of a stake… sometimes two.. Regardless of the reason for staking, you will easily obtain a healthy neat and tidy garden when using staking methods that are appropriate for your plants. Here are some tips and tricks to staking plants correctly. Follow them and enjoy a beautiful garden all summer long.

1) Do your plants need staking?
If your plant is top heavy, or moves around in the wind or the flowers/fruit lie on the ground, your plant needs staking. For perennials, try to remember from last year. Taller plants like delphiniums and hollyhocks are a must to stake. Strong winds and a hard rain will cause them to flop over and they do not bounce back later on. If you are planting vegetables, there is one veggie that will absolutely need to be staked… the tomato plant. Using a tomato cage will not only help support the plant but also keep the tomatoes out of the dirt.

2) When should you stake plants?
For perennials, stake your plants as early as possible, when they first begin to appear and the dangers of late frosts have passed. Top heavy flowers from bulbs should be staked at planting to avoid the risk of piercing any part of the underground portion of the bulb and damaging it. For tomatoes, let them have a head start of about 8 inches before you stake them. Be careful not to damage the root system when placing the stake.

3) Select the proper stakes for your plants.
Materials such as branches, bamboo, plastic stakes or metal rings (like Link-ups & tomato cages) work well for ease. Good old fashioned wooden stakes will work too but they should be sturdy straight stakes free from splinters. The size of the stake should fit your plant. Not too long, short or thick. The stake should be at least 1 foot higher than the plant before it is set into the ground.

4) Where should you place the stake?
Use a hammer to drive the stake into the ground OUTSIDE the drip line of the plant. Placing the stake inside the drip line will damage the roots.(The drip line is the imaginary circle on the ground that corresponds to the leaf canopy). Drive the stake into the soil so it is slightly lower than the height of the plant.

5) Tie off your plant.
Use covered wire or coated plant ties and attach them loosely ensuring they do not cut into the bark or stem of the plant. Be sure to secure the tie to the stake and not the plant. The tie material should begin at the stake, make a figure 8 and be tied securely to the stake with a knot or twist. You can also use green twine that will blend into your garden and will not damage or cut into the plant. Plants with top heavy flowers such as gladiolus and dahlias should be tied all the way to the top of the flower.

The vigorous growth of many herbaceous perennials and climbers often need a helping hand to prevent them from flopping onto neighboring plants or over the edges of lawn and paths. Putting plant supports in place early means that even the most obvious one can be hidden by the foliage in just a few weeks. After all, looking at a few bare stakes for a short period of time is a lot simpler than having your plants reach full bloom and have the task of trying to tie plants that are too tall running the risk of breaking or bending the tops and trying to fit a full grown plant into a stake.

Apr 082011
 

Plantskydd was developed in Sweden in 1991 to protect tree plantations being decimated by deer, moose and rabbits -while also meeting strict environmental laws. It is equally effective protecting flowers, fruit trees, gardens, ornamental shrubs, conifer and broad leaf plants. It is now Made in the USA from 100% natural ingredients: dried blood (porcine and/or bovine), vegetable oil and water. Plantskydd repels deer, rabbits, voles, chipmunks, squirrels, opossum, and even elk & moose! For more information stop into the store!

Sweeney’s All Out & All Season

Sweeney’s is a leader in developing safe and effective home pest control products. All Out Deer & Rabbit Repellent provides time released action, is resistance to rain and has minimal order to humans. Gardeners will appreciate the extended effectiveness the time-released formula provides. Additionally, field and lab trials show the repellent is 100 percent effective even after three days of rain. Regular watering won’t wash off the formula either, one of the hassles typically associated with Deer and Rabbit Repell.

All Season Weatherproof Deer Repellent provides all season protection. A single application in the spring protects sprouting plants and new growth for the entire growing season. This repellent is orderless to humans, safe for vegetable gardens, non-toxic and organic and safe to use around children and pets. The repellent is continuously released from repellent station, triggering a deer’s instinct to avoid predator activity. The best part is you only have to apply this product once for an entire season of protection!

At The Rock Pile we have always carried animals repellents for those customers who have issues with Deer, rabbits and other critters getting into their gardens and around their homes. The best way to prevent unwanted animals is to occasionally rotate the repellents you use. That way, these pests won’t get used to a particular product.

Mar 102011
 

Water is one of the most important things birders can add to their backyard to attract birds. All bird species need water, and adding one or more water features to your yard will quickly attract feathered friends.  Birds need water for two reasons: drinking and preening. Water helps keep a bird’s body cool both from the inside and outside. Water baths can also remove dust, loose feathers, parasites and other debris from a bird’s plumage. Offering water in your backyard will attract more birds than just food sources, since birds that would not normally visit feeders can be tempted by water features.  Any water is an improvement on a dry backyard, but moving water will attract more birds because the motion catches their eye and they can hear any dripping, sprinkles or splashes. Adding a Water Wiggler dripper, or mister accessory to a standing birdbath adds motion easily. Birdbaths are the fastest, easiest way to add water to your backyard bird habitat. The Rock Pile offers different sizes and styles. Birdbaths come in three basic designs:

  • Pedestal: These classic bird baths stand three to four feet above the ground and include a post-style base on an elevated dish. Pedestal bird baths may be plastic, metal, ceramic or concrete and come in varying decorative designs and colors.
  • Dish: A simple saucer or shallow bowl can be used for a dish bird bath. Dishes can be used at different heights by being placed on the ground, a fence, patio table, stump or steps. Hanging dishes and models that attach to deck railings are also available.
  • Heated: A heated birdbath is essential in colder climates. It takes a great deal of energy to melt snow to drink, and birds willingly visit available water sources all year round. Heater accessories can be added to existing bird baths. Fully heated models are available as well.

For birds to feel comfortable using a bird bath, it should not be more than two or three inches deep. Adding an overturned saucer or level rocks to the center of the bath can add a shallower section or island for birds to use.

Misters

Misters are a favorite way for hummingbirds to find water and they will often hover in a mister repeatedly on a hot day. Misters also provide moving water to attract other birds, and if they are properly positioned they will drip into a bird bath for even more motion.  Misters may be attached to birdbaths or they can come as separate water features. For the best effect, position the mister in a partially shaded area that has several perches available.

Cleaning Water Features for Birds

Water features will attract the most birds when the water is clean and fresh. Standing water features such as bird baths and dishes should be cleaned often, while moving and flowing water will naturally stay fresher and can be cleaned less frequently.

Attracting birds with water is easy, and there are many simple ways to add fresh water to your backyard to entice birds for a drink or a bath.

Nov 292010
 


It’s that time of year when you need to be thinking of all those visitors that may be coming to your front door.  The last thing anyone needs is a slippery sidewalk or drive way.

Trust me; everyone from the mailman to the pizza-delivery guy will be thanking you for a clean walkway.

Try an ice-melter this winter for fewer slips and falls.

Diamond Crystal Winter Melt (50 pound bag for $)

  • Rock Salt/Halite (natural mineral)
  • Works to 5° Fahrenheit
  • Economical & efficient
  • High Capacity ice melter
  • Helps provide instant traction
  • Blend of large and small melting crystals

Peladow (50 pound bag for $)

  • Works as low as -25° Fahrenheit
  • Premiere snow & ice melter
  • Calcium chloride pellets
  • Generates heat on contact with snow and ice accelerating the melting process
  • Economical because you can use less and melt more.

Mag – High Performance Melter (50 pound bag $)

  • Works as low as -13° Fahrenheit
  • Magnesium Chloride
  • Safer for People, Pets, Concrete & Environment
  • Very low toxicity, won’t burn or irritate skin
  • Safer for plants – Magnesium is a common ingredient in fertilizers
  • Won’t leave powder residue on floors and carpets

Safe-T Pet 8lb Jug $9.99 ea

Nov 042010
 

As the winter approaches the birds need to be fed more than ever. But we are less likely to fill feeders when it is cold outside. We like to stay inside and keep warm. Don’t let the birds suffer… offer the birds a feed that will last longer at your feeding station. Lots of feed for the birds and less refilling feeders for you: its a win-win situation! Birdola Cakes are 2 pound Seed Blocks and are available in 3 flavors. And now save 15% with our coupon below!

Woodpecker Blend features Black Oil Sunflower Seeds, Mixed Tree Nuts, White Millet, Cracked Corn & Peanuts! ($7.99)

Trail Mix features Black Oil Sunflower Seeds, Peanuts, Peanut Hearts, Cracked Corn, Sunflower Hearts, Safflower Seeds, Red Millet, Mixed Nuts & Raisins! ($7.99)

Birdola Plus features Black Oil Sunflower Seeds, Peanut Hearts, Safflower Seeds, Peanuts, White Millet with added vitamins, minerals and electrolytes for strong healthy birds! ($5.99)

Birdola Feeder features fold down perches on both sides of the feeder allowing bird species that require perching to feed to enjoy this fantastic feeding option. The large open gird provides a more sanitary place for birds to feed. ($9.99)

Oct 252010
 

This large bright blue and white bird features a crest on it’s head that moves up and down at will. Unlike many of our backyard birds there is little difference between the male and female and the juvenile is the same as the adult only duller. Some people love seeing this bird for it’s beauty but other don’t like it because it can scare off other backyard birds. The Blue Jay has been known to scream like a hawk to scatter birds at a feeder before approaching it. This bird is also one of the few birds to catch food and will occasionally eat eggs or young birds from the nest of other birds, but this is pretty rare. Jays are birds of forest edges. A favorite food is acorns so they are often found near oaks. They glean insects and take nuts and seeds in trees, shrubs, and on the ground and will also eat grains. One of their favorites to eat from a feeding station is peanuts! Try offering splits, or even straight peanut in the shell! These birds are known for their intelligence and complex social systems with tight family bonds. They store food in caches to eat later and their fondness for acorns is credited with helping spread oak trees after the last glacial period.

May 032010
 

One Rock Pile employee stated, “When I first started getting interested in gardening, I thought, why would anyone use annuals?  You have to plant them every year.  That’s a lot of work, but now I am starting to appreciate annuals more and more.”  Gardening is a labor of love and the results are gardens you can enjoy with your family, friends and neighbors.  So, why should you choose annuals?  Because they give you a big impact all season long and it also gives you opportunity to change your garden’s look each year.  Think of it as clothing and accessories for your yard.

The term annual is applied to plants that complete their life cycle in the span of one growing season.  This means they come up in the spring, grow, flower, set seed and then die after frosts in the fall.  There are annuals (geranium, impatiens, coleus and lantana to name a few) in northern climates that are in fact perennial in warmer climates.  They could be dug up, potted, and brought indoors for over-wintering.  There are other annuals (cleome, snapdragon, amaranth, cosmos and petunia are a few) that may appear to come back the next year, but that is only because they drop a large amount of seeds in the fall.

Impatiens

There are annuals for both sunny and shady areas.  For heavy shade, select plants like impatiens, begonia, coleus, and fuchsia.  For light shade choose plants like pansy, alyssum, and dianthus.  Hot dry areas are common along the edges of pavement or in front of light colored, south facing walls.  If planting in these areas choose plants like zinnia, petunia, and blue salvia.

Here’s the best reason why you should plant annuals… they require very little care to keep them attractive and blooming from late spring well into fall!  Some flowers fall off cleanly and do not need to be removed.  Others require “deadheading or pinching off.”  The tops of some plants such as petunias and impatiens may be cut back 6-8 inches in mid to late summer after the first flush of flowers has subsided to promote a second flowering period in the fall.  After cutting, fertilize and water well to encourage re-growth.

So when you are considering buying plants, add an annual accessory to your yard.  This could be area plantings, a hanging basket, or a patio container.  All of these options create a beautiful splash of color to any garden.

Apr 122010
 

Rock gardens are an easy way of adding dimension to your landscape. They can be as big or as small as you like. At The Rock Pile and Garden Center we not only have a number of different kinds of natural stone to start off your project, but we also have all the plants, soil and everything else you will need to create a beautiful and interesting element in your yard.

First determine where you would like to create this feature. The dimensions will guide you as you pick out your materials. The process is rather like putting together a jigsaw puzzle, except YOU determine how that puzzle turns out. Begin with the rocks. Choose rocks of various sizes and shapes. You may not want to place all of your rocks right away. Remember, it’s a lot easier to change your mind and move a rock to another position than it is to dig up plants and replant them somewhere else. Keep in mind that there’s a delicate balance between planting and rock placement. Your goal is to cover as much of the surface as possible with rocks and plants. The look to achieve would be a mix of rocks with plants popping out between, around and over them. Rock gardens are composed of plants that require a soil with good drainage. Use our Premium Blend Topsoil or mix in our Top Dressing or Cow Compost into your current soil to promote better drainage.

When selecting plants, there are a few things to take into consideration. Focus on foliage which will be the backbone for your composition. Choose different foliage textures; plants that creep, crawl or remain clump-like work well.  Contrast in texture, size and color will create a visually stimulating effect.  And while the visual effect is important, it is not the only factor. Plants as living things have growing requirements to take into consideration. Think light requirements. Is your area shady or sunny? This may expand or limit your plant selection. Install plants like our “Nooks and Crannies”, which are just perfect for this project. These smaller perennial plants are very easy to work with and are all you really need to create a beautiful rock garden.  The end result will be a garden with many levels, textures, colors and interesting visual points.

This is an easy project that the whole family will love. Don’t stress over this project, it’s a fun and easy way of spicing up your landscape. Think of rock gardens like this… It’s not Mozart, it’s Miles Davis, it’s not Michelangelo, it’s Jackson Pollock, it’s not Shakespeare, it’s your kids putting on a play in your backyard.

Check out our selection of Natural Landscape Stone here!

Feb 152010
 

As promised, here is some more helpful information for planting seeds this year.

Six Steps for easy seed planting.

1)  Start with a quality potting mix like Schultz Seed Starter Plus or Jiffy Seed Starter Mix.  These are light weight mediums that have all the nutrients your seeds need at birth.

2)  Larger pots promote more open development of roots, but separating individual plants later can result in tearing of roots and increase transplant shock.  So it is important to select the right containers. Use individual seed pots and trays like Jiffy Seed Starter Greenhouse that will help minimize transplant shock.

3)  Fill the containers with seed starting mix and water thoroughly.  Make sure the soil is wet, but not soaking.

4)  Plant the seeds.  Be sure not to plant them too deep. You can carefully add soil around the seedlings at a later point if needed.

5)  Provide warmth.  Some people use a heating mat, while others put them on top of a warm oven, by the fireplace or in a sunny window.  Some people create a seed incubator.  Enclose your containers in plastic or wood and put a light inside.  The heat from the light will raise the temperature and create a greenhouse effect.  It is important to measure the temperature to make sure it does not get too warm.

6)  Now the wait begins!  The time required to germinate may be a few days to a few weeks.  Germination time varies widely.  It can usually be found on the seed packet.  For seeds with a long germination period, plant in smaller groups over a couple of weeks.  This way if the first group does not germinate, you won’t be waiting three weeks to find out before starting a new planting.

As your seedling emerges from soil, most growers breathe a big sigh of relief.  Close your eyes and you can almost see the plant grow and flourish into its full beauty, producing beautiful flowers and tasty veggies.  As you open your eyes, you will immediately begin a new set of worries… but we’ll get to that next month.

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