Why is fall planting so good for plants? Fall often give us dependable rainfall so you are sure to have prime soil conditions!  In the fall, the warm soil encourages root growth.  Roots continue to grow through the winter. In early spring, roots continue to develop at a faster rate, and top growth begins. Fall-planted plants quickly become well established features in your landscape. Because roots are established early, your plants are now better equipped to deal with heat and drought.

The Rock Pile carries the best selection of quality plants.  Our fresh beautiful stock has something for everyone!   Take a walk through our nursery stock and you will find an array of colors and textures.  Plants with berries, flowering trees and shrubs, airy foliage, compact foliage, from velvety to waxy smooth, we’ve got it!  You’ve just got to see it to believe it.  Go ahead and compare -you’ll find we not only have a wide selection but we have the best quality plants around at great prices!

Think spring. What do you think of? I think of warmer weather, rain and all kinds of plants beginning to push through the ground. And since this will be happening soon, there is one precaution you should take before it’s too late for your plants. Use plant supports. Spring staking is always easier and better for your garden plants. Some plants can stand on their own. Others need a helping hand in the form of a stake… sometimes two.. Regardless of the reason for staking, you will easily obtain a healthy neat and tidy garden when using staking methods that are appropriate for your plants. Here are some tips and tricks to staking plants correctly. Follow them and enjoy a beautiful garden all summer long.

1) Do your plants need staking?
If your plant is top heavy, or moves around in the wind or the flowers/fruit lie on the ground, your plant needs staking. For perennials, try to remember from last year. Taller plants like delphiniums and hollyhocks are a must to stake. Strong winds and a hard rain will cause them to flop over and they do not bounce back later on. If you are planting vegetables, there is one veggie that will absolutely need to be staked… the tomato plant. Using a tomato cage will not only help support the plant but also keep the tomatoes out of the dirt.

2) When should you stake plants?
For perennials, stake your plants as early as possible, when they first begin to appear and the dangers of late frosts have passed. Top heavy flowers from bulbs should be staked at planting to avoid the risk of piercing any part of the underground portion of the bulb and damaging it. For tomatoes, let them have a head start of about 8 inches before you stake them. Be careful not to damage the root system when placing the stake.

3) Select the proper stakes for your plants.
Materials such as branches, bamboo, plastic stakes or metal rings (like Link-ups & tomato cages) work well for ease. Good old fashioned wooden stakes will work too but they should be sturdy straight stakes free from splinters. The size of the stake should fit your plant. Not too long, short or thick. The stake should be at least 1 foot higher than the plant before it is set into the ground.

4) Where should you place the stake?
Use a hammer to drive the stake into the ground OUTSIDE the drip line of the plant. Placing the stake inside the drip line will damage the roots.(The drip line is the imaginary circle on the ground that corresponds to the leaf canopy). Drive the stake into the soil so it is slightly lower than the height of the plant.

5) Tie off your plant.
Use covered wire or coated plant ties and attach them loosely ensuring they do not cut into the bark or stem of the plant. Be sure to secure the tie to the stake and not the plant. The tie material should begin at the stake, make a figure 8 and be tied securely to the stake with a knot or twist. You can also use green twine that will blend into your garden and will not damage or cut into the plant. Plants with top heavy flowers such as gladiolus and dahlias should be tied all the way to the top of the flower.

The vigorous growth of many herbaceous perennials and climbers often need a helping hand to prevent them from flopping onto neighboring plants or over the edges of lawn and paths. Putting plant supports in place early means that even the most obvious one can be hidden by the foliage in just a few weeks. After all, looking at a few bare stakes for a short period of time is a lot simpler than having your plants reach full bloom and have the task of trying to tie plants that are too tall running the risk of breaking or bending the tops and trying to fit a full grown plant into a stake.

Stop by for a Seminar Saturday, April 2nd at 10am!

By Bernie Car

Have you ever had a “sick tree” and the advice you got was “Let’s fertilize it and see what happens”? Or, your trees and shrubs had various insect or disease problems, and the advice was to “spray the bugs”. On the surface, these seem like reasonable, common sense approaches. But they are the horticultural equivalent of “Take two aspirin and call me in the morning.” Simply put, this approach is about treating the symptoms without addressing the underlying problem. It’s like turning up the radio to drown out the loud clunking sound coming from underneath your hood!

At Organic Air Tree and Shrub Care, we get to the root of the problem. Literally. This is because most problems visible above ground, whether dying branches or attacks from pests, are the result of a root-related disorder. Once that disorder is addressed, the tree can begin its path to recovery.

Root disorders generally fall into two categories: stem-girdling roots, and general root dieback due to lack of available oxygen in the soil.

A stem-girdling root is like a noose that eventually “chokes” and kills a tree. It most often forms when there is excessive soil or mulch piled against the trunk above the root flare. The flare is that outwardly curved region at the base, that many of us used to accentuate in our childhood tree drawings. Now, most newly planted trees go straight down like telephone poles, and the flare is buried. This is bad.

In other words, most new landscape plantings start out with trees and shrubs that are planted too deeply, and eventually lead to plants dying prematurely. Furthermore, once the tree is placed in the planting hole, the original soil from the hole is commonly piled back on top of the ball against the trunk, and then mulch is added. The end result is a root flare that can be four to twelve inches below the soil line. These trees become “time bombs” waiting to die, and the property owner eventually has to bear the expense of planting a new tree.

With regard to root-available oxygen, this is the single most-limiting factor in root development. Roots won’t grow where oxygen is lacking. Soil compaction after construction, naturally heavy clay soils, and deep planting, all affect root-available soil oxygen. As roots die, the plant becomes stressed because the supply of water and nutrients to the canopy is reduced. Much like a malnourished or stressed-out person, a malnourished or stressed-out plant falls prey to attacking organisms (insects and/or fungus).

Organic Air can repair soil oxygen issues and stem-girdling roots with a specialized tool called a Supersonic Air Knife. By using compressed air, soil can be taken away from the base of the trunk so we can surgically remove any malformed roots. Air is then injected deeply into the ground, typically 18 to 24 inches down, to expand pore spaces in the soil (think of a new sponge expanding when put in water). It truly is like a breath of fresh air to a struggling root system.

Aerating is not only good for roots, but it increases the activity of beneficial soil organisms, which also require oxygen. Earthworms and good bacteria and fungi help release vital minerals, such as calcium, iron, and manganese that plants need for proper function. When organic fertilizers are used in conjunction with well-oxygenated soils, the microbe populations explode, bringing even more nutrients to plants. This is different from conventional fertilizers, which focus on nitrogen as the primary nutrient. Most people know that fertilizers can “burn” plant roots if too much is applied. Products such as urea, which is a common source of nitrogen in synthetic fertilizers, can cause dehydration in the soil. That dehydration may also interfere with populations of soil organisms, ultimately having a negative effect on nutrient availability to plants. As microbes fade away due to the continuous use of synthetic fertilizers, there becomes a greater reliance on chemicals to keep plants healthy. Going organic can help break that cycle.

In the end, the secret to healthy plants lies in healthy roots and soil. Organic Air’s combination of Air Knife services and Organic Tree and Shrub Care are unique in the Lorain County and Western Cuyahoga County region. Watch a video of the Air Knife at our web site, www.organicairtsc.com, or call us at 419-668-3457 for a free consultation.

Below is a listing of specifications used by many Northern Ohio municipalities for all new city tree plantings. It is provided by the Ohio Department of Natural Resources Division of Forestry. Note emphasis of removing burlap, twine, and wire basket.
Planting Balled and Burlapped Trees:

1. If not readily apparent, locate root flare by removing twine, burlap, and excess soil.
2. Dig tree hole at least two times wider than the tree ball, with sides sloped to an unexcavated or firm base. Dig hole to a depth so the located root flare, at the first order lateral root, will be at finished grade.
3. Lifting only from the bottom of the root ball, position tree on firm pad so that it is straight and top of root flare is level with the surrounding soil.
4. Remove all twine from the root ball. If present, remove and discard at least the top one half of the wire basket. Burlap shall be removed from the top to a point halfway down the root ball and discarded.
5. With clean, sharp pruning tools, prune off any secondary/adventitious, girdling, and potential girdling roots.
6. Backfill planting hole with existing unamended soil, and thoroughly water.
7. Mulch the entire planting surface with composted bark applied no less than two inches (2″) deep and no more than three inches (3″) deep, leaving three inches (3”) adjacent to the tree trunk free of mulch.

Bernie Car is an ISA Certified Arborist and the owner of Organic Air Tree and Shrub Care. He also serves as a member of the Norwalk Tree Board.

When we first started to carry the Erva Polling System, we knew you would like it.  Now many of our customers are enjoying them in their own backyards.  If it is time for you to add a new pole or replace an existing one, check out this one.  What makes this system so great?  It is easy to set up, and you can customize your pole with individual components that make the perfect set-up for your situation.

Start with a tubular steel pole. These black powder coat finished poles are available in two lengths: 6 foot & 5 foot.  Secure these poles to a base.  Both the twister and the “cat-tail” ground sockets securely sink these poles into the ground while the patio base allows for easy repositioning on your deck or patio.  Want an even taller pole?  Use a pole extension.  Available in 14″ or 20″ lengths, these extenders are ideal for situations where the pole needs to be just a bit taller.  Next choose your topper.  Whether it’s a 2 hook, 3 hook, 4 hook or mounting flange, we have the topper right for you.  The hook toppers feature a decorative finial cover in the center that can be removed to add multiple units.

Now that you have designed your own pole you can choose to keep it simple or add accessories for further function.  We highly suggest using a baffle.  The wrap around squirrel baffle’s inverted cone shape is effective in making your feeders critter resistant.  Have even bigger problems?  Use the 8″ cylindrical raccoon baffle!  Other accessories include the quick connect coil hanger allowing for an extra hook, the fruit feeder designed to hold four pieces of fruit, or the universal feeder which features a glass dish that is guaranteed not to crack in a freeze and can hold fruit, seed, jelly or mealworms.  However you choose to put your pole together or accessorize it, we’re sure that you will be pleased with the Erva Pole System.  Stop in the store and see one for yourself.

One Rock Pile employee stated, “When I first started getting interested in gardening, I thought, why would anyone use annuals?  You have to plant them every year.  That’s a lot of work, but now I am starting to appreciate annuals more and more.”  Gardening is a labor of love and the results are gardens you can enjoy with your family, friends and neighbors.  So, why should you choose annuals?  Because they give you a big impact all season long and it also gives you opportunity to change your garden’s look each year.  Think of it as clothing and accessories for your yard.

The term annual is applied to plants that complete their life cycle in the span of one growing season.  This means they come up in the spring, grow, flower, set seed and then die after frosts in the fall.  There are annuals (geranium, impatiens, coleus and lantana to name a few) in northern climates that are in fact perennial in warmer climates.  They could be dug up, potted, and brought indoors for over-wintering.  There are other annuals (cleome, snapdragon, amaranth, cosmos and petunia are a few) that may appear to come back the next year, but that is only because they drop a large amount of seeds in the fall.

Impatiens

There are annuals for both sunny and shady areas.  For heavy shade, select plants like impatiens, begonia, coleus, and fuchsia.  For light shade choose plants like pansy, alyssum, and dianthus.  Hot dry areas are common along the edges of pavement or in front of light colored, south facing walls.  If planting in these areas choose plants like zinnia, petunia, and blue salvia.

Here’s the best reason why you should plant annuals… they require very little care to keep them attractive and blooming from late spring well into fall!  Some flowers fall off cleanly and do not need to be removed.  Others require “deadheading or pinching off.”  The tops of some plants such as petunias and impatiens may be cut back 6-8 inches in mid to late summer after the first flush of flowers has subsided to promote a second flowering period in the fall.  After cutting, fertilize and water well to encourage re-growth.

So when you are considering buying plants, add an annual accessory to your yard.  This could be area plantings, a hanging basket, or a patio container.  All of these options create a beautiful splash of color to any garden.

Rock gardens are an easy way of adding dimension to your landscape. They can be as big or as small as you like. At The Rock Pile and Garden Center we not only have a number of different kinds of natural stone to start off your project, but we also have all the plants, soil and everything else you will need to create a beautiful and interesting element in your yard.

First determine where you would like to create this feature. The dimensions will guide you as you pick out your materials. The process is rather like putting together a jigsaw puzzle, except YOU determine how that puzzle turns out. Begin with the rocks. Choose rocks of various sizes and shapes. You may not want to place all of your rocks right away. Remember, it’s a lot easier to change your mind and move a rock to another position than it is to dig up plants and replant them somewhere else. Keep in mind that there’s a delicate balance between planting and rock placement. Your goal is to cover as much of the surface as possible with rocks and plants. The look to achieve would be a mix of rocks with plants popping out between, around and over them. Rock gardens are composed of plants that require a soil with good drainage. Use our Premium Blend Topsoil or mix in our Top Dressing or Cow Compost into your current soil to promote better drainage.

When selecting plants, there are a few things to take into consideration. Focus on foliage which will be the backbone for your composition. Choose different foliage textures; plants that creep, crawl or remain clump-like work well.  Contrast in texture, size and color will create a visually stimulating effect.  And while the visual effect is important, it is not the only factor. Plants as living things have growing requirements to take into consideration. Think light requirements. Is your area shady or sunny? This may expand or limit your plant selection. Install plants like our “Nooks and Crannies”, which are just perfect for this project. These smaller perennial plants are very easy to work with and are all you really need to create a beautiful rock garden.  The end result will be a garden with many levels, textures, colors and interesting visual points.

This is an easy project that the whole family will love. Don’t stress over this project, it’s a fun and easy way of spicing up your landscape. Think of rock gardens like this… It’s not Mozart, it’s Miles Davis, it’s not Michelangelo, it’s Jackson Pollock, it’s not Shakespeare, it’s your kids putting on a play in your backyard.

Check out our selection of Natural Landscape Stone here!