Our entire stock of gorgeous is on sale! 40% off regular prices! Don’t forget that fall is an awesome time to plant trees!

Japanese Beetles are out in full force… are you protected?

Treat for Japanese Beetles with Sevin®, available in Ready-to-Use, Hose-end sprayer, Concentrate and Powder.

You can also use Japanese Beetle Traps by placing them 10 feet down-wind of your plants so you do not attract them to your plants.

More information on Japanese Beetles:

Japanese beetle is the common name for a destructive beetle, Popillia japonica, of the scarab beetle family. Accidentally imported to the United States from Japan, it was first discovered in New Jersey in 1916 and is now widespread in the northeastern states, where it is a serious pest of lawns, orchards, and gardens. The adult is about 1/2 in. (13 mm) long with a metallic-green head and thorax and reddish-brown wing covers. Metamorphosis is complete (see insect ). The eggs are laid in the ground; the small white larvae, called grubs, feed on the roots of grasses, sometimes killing them, and hibernate during the winter. Pupation occurs in the spring, and the adult emerges in midsummer, feeding on and destroying leaves, flowers, and fruits. Many methods of control have been tried, especially those involving the insect’s natural enemies—e.g., parasitic wasps and flies, some of them imported from Japan; bacteria that cause the “milky disease” of grubs; and certain parasitic nematodes. None, however, have been entirely successful in controlling the spread of the beetle. Japanese beetles are classified in the phylum Arthropoda , class Insecta, order Coleoptera, family Scarabaeidae. ¹

1. “Japanese beetle.” The Columbia Encyclopedia, Sixth Edition. 2008. Encyclopedia.com. 6 Jul. 2010 <http://www.encyclopedia.com>.

Independence Day Sale!

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We have BEAUTIFUL Trees, Shrubs, and Evergreens

and they are

40% OFF THURSDAY, FRIDAY AND SATURDAY ONLY!

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As an “Independent” Garden Center, we’re celebrating Independence Day by giving you 40% off our entire stock of Trees, Shrubs and Evergreens on July 1st, 2nd and 3rd only.

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*Pictures do not necessarily represent items that are in-stock. Please visit our Garden Center to see complete stock.*
*Sale is off regular price. Not valid on previous purchases.*

When we first started to carry the Erva Polling System, we knew you would like it.  Now many of our customers are enjoying them in their own backyards.  If it is time for you to add a new pole or replace an existing one, check out this one.  What makes this system so great?  It is easy to set up, and you can customize your pole with individual components that make the perfect set-up for your situation.

Start with a tubular steel pole. These black powder coat finished poles are available in two lengths: 6 foot & 5 foot.  Secure these poles to a base.  Both the twister and the “cat-tail” ground sockets securely sink these poles into the ground while the patio base allows for easy repositioning on your deck or patio.  Want an even taller pole?  Use a pole extension.  Available in 14″ or 20″ lengths, these extenders are ideal for situations where the pole needs to be just a bit taller.  Next choose your topper.  Whether it’s a 2 hook, 3 hook, 4 hook or mounting flange, we have the topper right for you.  The hook toppers feature a decorative finial cover in the center that can be removed to add multiple units.

Now that you have designed your own pole you can choose to keep it simple or add accessories for further function.  We highly suggest using a baffle.  The wrap around squirrel baffle’s inverted cone shape is effective in making your feeders critter resistant.  Have even bigger problems?  Use the 8″ cylindrical raccoon baffle!  Other accessories include the quick connect coil hanger allowing for an extra hook, the fruit feeder designed to hold four pieces of fruit, or the universal feeder which features a glass dish that is guaranteed not to crack in a freeze and can hold fruit, seed, jelly or mealworms.  However you choose to put your pole together or accessorize it, we’re sure that you will be pleased with the Erva Pole System.  Stop in the store and see one for yourself.

Bloomerang Lilac

A revolutionary new kind of lilac, Bloomerang blooms in spring and then again throughout the summer. It does go through a rest period in the heat of the summer, then flowers. While traditional lilac varieties bloom for a few short weeks in spring, Bloomerang’s fragrant flowers continue until frost. This compact, mounded variety fits easily into any landscape, and is ideal as a foundation planting or as part of the mixed border. You can even include it into perennial beds. Enjoy classic lilac fragrance for months instead of weeks!

Remove spent blooms promptly to encourage reblooming. Prune to shape after blooming. Flower production may decline during extremely hot summers but will resume when temperatures cool in fall. Apply a controlled release fertilizer in the spring. This variety has good powdery mildew resistance, and is also resistant to the root rots that can be problematic for lilacs.

Features
Reblooming lilac blooms from spring and again from mid-summer to frost. Small habit fits into any garden. Trim to shape after flowering. Good for cutting. Fragrant. Deer resistant.
• Attracts Butterflies
• Cut Flower
• Deer Resistant
• Fragrant Flowers
• Landscape (Professional)
• Landscape Plant
• Low Maintenance
• New

Ornamental Characteristics
Flower Color: Lavender
Foliage Color: Green
Garden Height: 48 – 60″; Tall
Spacing: 60 – 72″
Habit: Mounded
Container Plant Style: Thriller – Used either in the back or middle of a container. Usually a taller item that adds height and drama to the container.

Plant Needs
Duration: Shrub
Bloom Time: Spring through Summer
Zones: Hardy in zones 3 – 7
Hardy Temp: -40°F (-40°C)
Exposure: Full sun
Water Needs: Normal
Maintenance: Easy
Uses: Landscapes
A classic addition to foundation plantings and mixed borders.

TREES~SHRUBS EVERGREENS

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Check out some of the other Shrubs, Trees and Evergreens at
The Rock Pile Garden Center.

Select

Rhododendrons, Azaleas, and Lilacs

are 40% OFF!

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Experience The Rock Pile Garden Center difference. The absolute best around!

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**Don’t miss the Dr. Earth Organics Seminar on Saturday, May 29th at 10 am** more details here

The Rock Pile has been part of the Organic Gardening movement for 20 years. We are always excited when we find a company that produces products that are high quality, organic and user-friendly. We are proud to introduce the Dr. Earth product line, developer of the “Pro-Biotic” fertilizer.

There is nothing mysterious or magical about organic gardening. It is simply a way of working with nature rather than against it. The objective is to recycle organic matter back into the soil, to maintain soil structure and fertility, and to encourage natural methods of pest and disease control, rather than relying on chemicals. It is, in fact, a lot less mysterious than the methods employed by the chemical grower.

Organic gardening is much more than just growing plants without chemical fertilizers and artificial sprays. It is a lifestyle. It recognizes that that the complex workings of nature have been successful at maintaining life for hundreds of millions of years, so the sound organic cultivating principals closely follow those found in the natural world. Do not be fooled into thinking that these principals will have a detrimental effect on yield and quality. In fact, you are likely to increase both, and in doing so, you will be providing an alternative habitat for wildlife, while being certain that the fruits and vegetables you have produced in your garden are safe, nutritious and chemical free. You will also be reducing the possibility of the harmful side effects from pesticides that are on the increase in infants and young developing adults. Continue reading »

Osteospermum

Mom’s are generally very easy to buy for. As a mom, I can say it truly is the thought that counts. I don’t need anything amazing or expensive, just a token of love and appreciation means the world to me.

Why are flowers so wonderful for Mother’s Day? Because, even if your mom is the kind of woman who loves to buy her own flowers, a gal can never have enough beautiful blossoms in her life! Just as she raised, nourished and nurtured her children, enjoying the blossoms along the way, moms delight in the visual joy that flowers provide. Continue reading »

One Rock Pile employee stated, “When I first started getting interested in gardening, I thought, why would anyone use annuals?  You have to plant them every year.  That’s a lot of work, but now I am starting to appreciate annuals more and more.”  Gardening is a labor of love and the results are gardens you can enjoy with your family, friends and neighbors.  So, why should you choose annuals?  Because they give you a big impact all season long and it also gives you opportunity to change your garden’s look each year.  Think of it as clothing and accessories for your yard.

The term annual is applied to plants that complete their life cycle in the span of one growing season.  This means they come up in the spring, grow, flower, set seed and then die after frosts in the fall.  There are annuals (geranium, impatiens, coleus and lantana to name a few) in northern climates that are in fact perennial in warmer climates.  They could be dug up, potted, and brought indoors for over-wintering.  There are other annuals (cleome, snapdragon, amaranth, cosmos and petunia are a few) that may appear to come back the next year, but that is only because they drop a large amount of seeds in the fall.

Impatiens

There are annuals for both sunny and shady areas.  For heavy shade, select plants like impatiens, begonia, coleus, and fuchsia.  For light shade choose plants like pansy, alyssum, and dianthus.  Hot dry areas are common along the edges of pavement or in front of light colored, south facing walls.  If planting in these areas choose plants like zinnia, petunia, and blue salvia.

Here’s the best reason why you should plant annuals… they require very little care to keep them attractive and blooming from late spring well into fall!  Some flowers fall off cleanly and do not need to be removed.  Others require “deadheading or pinching off.”  The tops of some plants such as petunias and impatiens may be cut back 6-8 inches in mid to late summer after the first flush of flowers has subsided to promote a second flowering period in the fall.  After cutting, fertilize and water well to encourage re-growth.

So when you are considering buying plants, add an annual accessory to your yard.  This could be area plantings, a hanging basket, or a patio container.  All of these options create a beautiful splash of color to any garden.

We have a gorgeous selection of hanging baskets to brighten your porch!

The only problem will be…

…deciding which one you love the most!

Or, you could take one of each… you’ll want to!

Rock gardens are an easy way of adding dimension to your landscape. They can be as big or as small as you like. At The Rock Pile and Garden Center we not only have a number of different kinds of natural stone to start off your project, but we also have all the plants, soil and everything else you will need to create a beautiful and interesting element in your yard.

First determine where you would like to create this feature. The dimensions will guide you as you pick out your materials. The process is rather like putting together a jigsaw puzzle, except YOU determine how that puzzle turns out. Begin with the rocks. Choose rocks of various sizes and shapes. You may not want to place all of your rocks right away. Remember, it’s a lot easier to change your mind and move a rock to another position than it is to dig up plants and replant them somewhere else. Keep in mind that there’s a delicate balance between planting and rock placement. Your goal is to cover as much of the surface as possible with rocks and plants. The look to achieve would be a mix of rocks with plants popping out between, around and over them. Rock gardens are composed of plants that require a soil with good drainage. Use our Premium Blend Topsoil or mix in our Top Dressing or Cow Compost into your current soil to promote better drainage.

When selecting plants, there are a few things to take into consideration. Focus on foliage which will be the backbone for your composition. Choose different foliage textures; plants that creep, crawl or remain clump-like work well.  Contrast in texture, size and color will create a visually stimulating effect.  And while the visual effect is important, it is not the only factor. Plants as living things have growing requirements to take into consideration. Think light requirements. Is your area shady or sunny? This may expand or limit your plant selection. Install plants like our “Nooks and Crannies”, which are just perfect for this project. These smaller perennial plants are very easy to work with and are all you really need to create a beautiful rock garden.  The end result will be a garden with many levels, textures, colors and interesting visual points.

This is an easy project that the whole family will love. Don’t stress over this project, it’s a fun and easy way of spicing up your landscape. Think of rock gardens like this… It’s not Mozart, it’s Miles Davis, it’s not Michelangelo, it’s Jackson Pollock, it’s not Shakespeare, it’s your kids putting on a play in your backyard.

Check out our selection of Natural Landscape Stone here!

Just in time for Easter!

Hyacinths ~ Daffodils ~ Mixed Bulb Garden

Pansies and Violas!

Think spring. What do you think of? I think of warmer weather, rain and all kinds of plants beginning to push through the ground. And since this will be happening soon, there is one precaution you should take before it’s too late for your plants. Use plant supports. Spring staking is always easier and better for your garden plants. Some plants can stand on their own. Others need a helping hand in the form of a stake… sometimes two.. Regardless of the reason for staking, you will easily obtain a healthy neat and tidy garden when using staking methods that are appropriate for your plants. Here are some tips and tricks to staking plants correctly. Follow them and enjoy a beautiful garden all summer long.

1) Do your plants need staking?
If your plant is top heavy, or moves around in the wind or the flowers/fruit lie on the ground, your plant needs staking. For perennials, try to remember from last year. Taller plants like delphiniums and hollyhocks are a must to stake. Strong winds and a hard rain will cause them to flop over and they do not bounce back later on. If you are planting vegetables, there is one veggie that will absolutely need to be staked… the tomato plant. Using a tomato cage will not only help support the plant but also keep the tomatoes out of the dirt.

2) When should you stake plants?
For perennials, stake your plants as early as possible, when they first begin to appear and the dangers of late frosts have passed. Top heavy flowers from bulbs should be staked at planting to avoid the risk of piercing any part of the underground portion of the bulb and damaging it. For tomatoes, let them have a head start of about 8 inches before you stake them. Be careful not to damage the root system when placing the stake.

3) Select the proper stakes for your plants.
Materials such as branches, bamboo, plastic stakes or metal rings (like Link-ups & tomato cages) work well for ease. Good old fashioned wooden stakes will work too but they should be sturdy straight stakes free from splinters. The size of the stake should fit your plant. Not too long, short or thick. The stake should be at least 1 foot higher than the plant before it is set into the ground.

4) Where should you place the stake?
Use a hammer to drive the stake into the ground OUTSIDE the drip line of the plant. Placing the stake inside the drip line will damage the roots.(The drip line is the imaginary circle on the ground that corresponds to the leaf canopy). Drive the stake into the soil so it is slightly lower than the height of the plant.

5) Tie off your plant.
Use covered wire or coated plant ties and attach them loosely ensuring they do not cut into the bark or stem of the plant. Be sure to secure the tie to the stake and not the plant. The tie material should begin at the stake, make a figure 8 and be tied securely to the stake with a knot or twist. You can also use green twine that will blend into your garden and will not damage or cut into the plant. Plants with top heavy flowers such as gladiolus and dahlias should be tied all the way to the top of the flower.

The vigorous growth of many herbaceous perennials and climbers often need a helping hand to prevent them from flopping onto neighboring plants or over the edges of lawn and paths. Putting plant supports in place early means that even the most obvious one can be hidden by the foliage in just a few weeks. After all, looking at a few bare stakes for a short period of time is a lot simpler than having your plants reach full bloom and have the task of trying to tie plants that are too tall running the risk of breaking or bending the tops and trying to fit a full grown plant into a stake.

Seedling Care & Nurturing

Phew!  Your seedling is emerging from the soil.  But now comes the worry of over-nurturing your newborn plant while waiting for the outdoor weather to catch up with your dreams.

Be sure to thin your seedlings as needed. Plants do not like to be crowded because they need all the sun and nutrients they can get.  You may want to leave a few extras for a while as the mortality rate of seedlings can be high.

Let there be light, and plenty of it! As soon as seedling emerge they seek light, so offer as much direct sunlight as possible.  Placing your plants by a window with southern exposure will help.  This may still not be enough light, seeing as there can be a lack of sun in the spring.  Consider an artificial glow light and place the seedlings under it on cloudy days and at night.

Water your seedlings every couple of days. Do not soak the soil each day.  Overly wet soil encourages the development of damping off disease.  Let the soil dry out a little on the top, then water thoroughly.  Watering from the bottom is preferred.  That’s why it is important to get a container with holes in the bottom.

“Feed me, Seymore”… but not too much. Your seed starter soil comes with a balanced formula of nutrient that seedlings need.  But after several days you can add a little liquid fertilizer to the water.  Be sure not to give it the full strength.  Want to grow more beans & peas?  Use a soil inoculant like Burpee Booster which will increase crop yields and improve plant growth.  Available at The Rock Pile for only $2.49!

Look for the warning signs. If the roots of the seedling begin to come out the bottom of the pot/tray, it is time to either transplant your seedlings to a larger pot or plant them outdoors, weather permitting.  Most plants do not like to be root bound.

There can be a danger of having “leggy” plants.  This means that their main stem or stalk grows tall and thin and can hardly support the leaf structure.  It is caused by insufficient sunlight and a sheltered environment.  Indoors, plants do not experience the effect of wind, and do not need to develop structure to defend against it.  Most seedlings do not even experience a slight breeze.  When transplanted outdoors, “leggy” plants can be damaged or broken by the wind.  But there is good news, you can get them used to these conditions by hand-fanning your seedlings a few times a day.  You can even lightly brush the tops of the plants, brushing back and forth in varying directions.  You may notice the plants seem to slow down for a period.  What they are really doing is building a stronger stem or stalk.

As promised, here is some more helpful information for planting seeds this year.

Six Steps for easy seed planting.

1)  Start with a quality potting mix like Schultz Seed Starter Plus or Jiffy Seed Starter Mix.  These are light weight mediums that have all the nutrients your seeds need at birth.

2)  Larger pots promote more open development of roots, but separating individual plants later can result in tearing of roots and increase transplant shock.  So it is important to select the right containers. Use individual seed pots and trays like Jiffy Seed Starter Greenhouse that will help minimize transplant shock.

3)  Fill the containers with seed starting mix and water thoroughly.  Make sure the soil is wet, but not soaking.

4)  Plant the seeds.  Be sure not to plant them too deep. You can carefully add soil around the seedlings at a later point if needed.

5)  Provide warmth.  Some people use a heating mat, while others put them on top of a warm oven, by the fireplace or in a sunny window.  Some people create a seed incubator.  Enclose your containers in plastic or wood and put a light inside.  The heat from the light will raise the temperature and create a greenhouse effect.  It is important to measure the temperature to make sure it does not get too warm.

6)  Now the wait begins!  The time required to germinate may be a few days to a few weeks.  Germination time varies widely.  It can usually be found on the seed packet.  For seeds with a long germination period, plant in smaller groups over a couple of weeks.  This way if the first group does not germinate, you won’t be waiting three weeks to find out before starting a new planting.

As your seedling emerges from soil, most growers breathe a big sigh of relief.  Close your eyes and you can almost see the plant grow and flourish into its full beauty, producing beautiful flowers and tasty veggies.  As you open your eyes, you will immediately begin a new set of worries… but we’ll get to that next month.