If you’re convinced you’ll never be able to learn bird calls, start with the Gray Catbird. Once you’ve heard its catty mew you won’t forget it. Follow the sound into thickets and vine tangles and you’ll be rewarded by a somber gray bird with a black cap and bright rusty feathers under the tail. The Gray Catbird belongs to the genus , which means “small thicket.” And that’s exactly where you should go look for this little skulker. In summer, Gray Catbirds eat mainly ants, beetles, grasshoppers, midges, caterpillars, and moths. When fruits are available they also eat holly berries, cherries, elderberries, poison ivy, green-brier, bay, and blackberries.

Click here to go to the Cornell Lab of Ornithology to hear the Catbird’s call

 


View Rock Pile -construction updates in a larger map
*last updated 7/25/11 1:30 pm*

Green Point

Road Open

Red Point

Road Closed

Yellow Point

Road Open, but Limited

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**UPDATE** 7/25/11
Naigle (also known as Krebs on the west end) is CLOSED at Bradley for one month. You will have to detour to Lake Rd, Walker Rd or Detroit Rd.

With the I-90 interchange being added at Nagel Road, there will be some ongoing construction in the surrounding area. We will do our best to keep this map updated with current construction points.

Access will always be open to The Rock Pile, one way or another! And we will continue to deliver 7 days a week.

Please note that the cities do not communicate with us on the construction process and we do not know ahead of time (generally) where the workers will be. We’ll check the routes every morning and periodically throughout the day as opportunity allows.

 

The very best way to attract birds is to offer them the kinds of foods they would find and consume in nature, and that starts with offering bird-friendly plants.

TREES: Hackberry, White Spruce, White Pine, Red & Sugar Maples, River Birch, Hornbeam, Flowering Crabs, European Spindle Tree (Eastern Wahoo), Pagoda Dogwood, Cornelian Cherry Dogwood, Black Hills Spruce, White Spruce, Colorado Spruce, White Pine, English Oak, Regal Prince Oak, Bald Cypress, Ironwood Tree (Hop-Hornbeam), Norway Spruce, Flowering Dogwoods, Sweet Gum, Black Gum, Sassafras, Chokecherry, Japanese Tree Lilac

SHRUBS: Golden Elderberry, Black Lace Elderberry, Serviceberry, Beauty Berry, Western Arborvitae, Hemlock, Button Bush, Cotoneasters, Vernal & Common Witch-Hazel, Red & Yellow Winterberry, Arrow Wood Viburnum, Nanny Berry Viburnum, Black Haw Viburnum, American Cranberry Bush Viburnum, Red Chokeberry, Summer Sweet, Spice Bush, Bayberry, Barberry, Fragrant Sumac, Snowberry, Cardinal Candy Viburnum, Blue Muffin Viburnum, Witherod Viburnum, Black Haw Viburnum, Michael Dodge Linden Viburnum, Winterthur Viburnum, Molly Schroeder Viburnum, Tea Viburnum, Pink Beauty Viburnum, C.A. Hildebrandt’s Wrightii Viburnum, Blueberries, Junipers, Japanese Yew, Eastern Arborvitae, Gray Dogwood, Stag Horn Sumac, Rose of Sharon, Lead Plant (False Indigo), Hollies

GRASSES: Northern Sea Oats Grass, Dallas Blues Switch Grass, North Wind Switch Grass, Flame Grass, Little Zebra Grass, Little Bluestem Grass

The Rock Pile also carries countless PERENNIALS for attracting songbirds, hummingbirds and butterflies!  Check them out for yourself!

 

 

 

Mosquito Beater

Now is the time of year when we can start enjoying our backyards. Unfortunately, it is also the time of year we share our yards with the flying hypodermic needle – the mosquito. We need not surrender to these bloodsuckers. There are ways for us to claim back our yards simply by applying Mosquito Beater to our outdoor areas one hour before it is occupied will help keep it mosquito-free. It comes in a ready-to-use container that will treat up to 4,000 square feet. Best to apply when air movement is light to medium. It is an all-natural product with a pleasant scent. Depending on weather conditions it can last up to 3 weeks. With the wet May we have had, the mosquito population will be large.

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Mosquito Dunks

A product for using on mosquitoes before they bite.

Mosquito Dunks are a biological mosquito control that floats on water and will keep on working for 30 days or longer under typical environmental conditions. While floating, they slowly release a long term biological mosquito larvicide which gradually settles in the water where it is eaten by the mosquito larvae growing there. It can be used in all types of containerized standing water sites (except finished, treated drinking water), where mosquito larvae grow.

Use one dunk for up to 100 square feet of water surface, regardless of depth. They can be used whole or broken into portions and applied to containerized standing water found near the home such as:

Animal watering troughs

Bird baths

Flower pots

Rain barrels and roof gutters

Unused swimming pools

Old tires

Water gardens

Tree holes

They can be anchored by using a string tied through the center hold, or they can be staked in place to prevent them from being washed away.

 

Summer Birds… there is nothing else like them.

Two of our favorites include the nectar loving Ruby-Throated Hummingbird and the Eastern Bluebird.  The Ruby-Throated Hummingbird beats its wings about 53 times a second!  With all that fluttering, its no wonder these little guys love nectar.  They need that sugary goodness to boost their energy.  Feeders and flower gardens are great ways to attract The Ruby-Throated Hummingbirds, and some people turn their yards into buzzing clouds of them each summer. Enjoy them while they’re around; by early fall they’re bound for Central America, with many crossing the Gulf of Mexico in a single flight.

The Eastern Bluebird is not an easy bird to attract to every backyard. These birds will not eat seed, instead they have a diet of insects and berries. To get these beauties to appear at your feeding station, offer meal worms!  And even offering meal worms may not be enough to get bluebirds to come to your backyard.  Habitat and nesting availability are major factors in bluebird visits.  Keep a look out for these beautiful bluebirds and for more information about these fantastic summer visitors, check out this great site we found Click Here.

 

 

Think spring. What do you think of? I think of warmer weather, rain and all kinds of plants beginning to push through the ground. And since this will be happening soon, there is one precaution you should take before it’s too late for your plants. Use plant supports. Spring staking is always easier and better for your garden plants. Some plants can stand on their own. Others need a helping hand in the form of a stake… sometimes two.. Regardless of the reason for staking, you will easily obtain a healthy neat and tidy garden when using staking methods that are appropriate for your plants. Here are some tips and tricks to staking plants correctly. Follow them and enjoy a beautiful garden all summer long.

1) Do your plants need staking?
If your plant is top heavy, or moves around in the wind or the flowers/fruit lie on the ground, your plant needs staking. For perennials, try to remember from last year. Taller plants like delphiniums and hollyhocks are a must to stake. Strong winds and a hard rain will cause them to flop over and they do not bounce back later on. If you are planting vegetables, there is one veggie that will absolutely need to be staked… the tomato plant. Using a tomato cage will not only help support the plant but also keep the tomatoes out of the dirt.

2) When should you stake plants?
For perennials, stake your plants as early as possible, when they first begin to appear and the dangers of late frosts have passed. Top heavy flowers from bulbs should be staked at planting to avoid the risk of piercing any part of the underground portion of the bulb and damaging it. For tomatoes, let them have a head start of about 8 inches before you stake them. Be careful not to damage the root system when placing the stake.

3) Select the proper stakes for your plants.
Materials such as branches, bamboo, plastic stakes or metal rings (like Link-ups & tomato cages) work well for ease. Good old fashioned wooden stakes will work too but they should be sturdy straight stakes free from splinters. The size of the stake should fit your plant. Not too long, short or thick. The stake should be at least 1 foot higher than the plant before it is set into the ground.

4) Where should you place the stake?
Use a hammer to drive the stake into the ground OUTSIDE the drip line of the plant. Placing the stake inside the drip line will damage the roots.(The drip line is the imaginary circle on the ground that corresponds to the leaf canopy). Drive the stake into the soil so it is slightly lower than the height of the plant.

5) Tie off your plant.
Use covered wire or coated plant ties and attach them loosely ensuring they do not cut into the bark or stem of the plant. Be sure to secure the tie to the stake and not the plant. The tie material should begin at the stake, make a figure 8 and be tied securely to the stake with a knot or twist. You can also use green twine that will blend into your garden and will not damage or cut into the plant. Plants with top heavy flowers such as gladiolus and dahlias should be tied all the way to the top of the flower.

The vigorous growth of many herbaceous perennials and climbers often need a helping hand to prevent them from flopping onto neighboring plants or over the edges of lawn and paths. Putting plant supports in place early means that even the most obvious one can be hidden by the foliage in just a few weeks. After all, looking at a few bare stakes for a short period of time is a lot simpler than having your plants reach full bloom and have the task of trying to tie plants that are too tall running the risk of breaking or bending the tops and trying to fit a full grown plant into a stake.

 

Plantskydd was developed in Sweden in 1991 to protect tree plantations being decimated by deer, moose and rabbits -while also meeting strict environmental laws. It is equally effective protecting flowers, fruit trees, gardens, ornamental shrubs, conifer and broad leaf plants. It is now Made in the USA from 100% natural ingredients: dried blood (porcine and/or bovine), vegetable oil and water. Plantskydd repels deer, rabbits, voles, chipmunks, squirrels, opossum, and even elk & moose! For more information stop into the store!

Sweeney’s All Out & All Season

Sweeney’s is a leader in developing safe and effective home pest control products. All Out Deer & Rabbit Repellent provides time released action, is resistance to rain and has minimal order to humans. Gardeners will appreciate the extended effectiveness the time-released formula provides. Additionally, field and lab trials show the repellent is 100 percent effective even after three days of rain. Regular watering won’t wash off the formula either, one of the hassles typically associated with Deer and Rabbit Repell.

All Season Weatherproof Deer Repellent provides all season protection. A single application in the spring protects sprouting plants and new growth for the entire growing season. This repellent is orderless to humans, safe for vegetable gardens, non-toxic and organic and safe to use around children and pets. The repellent is continuously released from repellent station, triggering a deer’s instinct to avoid predator activity. The best part is you only have to apply this product once for an entire season of protection!

At The Rock Pile we have always carried animals repellents for those customers who have issues with Deer, rabbits and other critters getting into their gardens and around their homes. The best way to prevent unwanted animals is to occasionally rotate the repellents you use. That way, these pests won’t get used to a particular product.

 

Stop by for a Seminar Saturday, April 2nd at 10am!

 

By Bernie Car

Have you ever had a “sick tree” and the advice you got was “Let’s fertilize it and see what happens”? Or, your trees and shrubs had various insect or disease problems, and the advice was to “spray the bugs”. On the surface, these seem like reasonable, common sense approaches. But they are the horticultural equivalent of “Take two aspirin and call me in the morning.” Simply put, this approach is about treating the symptoms without addressing the underlying problem. It’s like turning up the radio to drown out the loud clunking sound coming from underneath your hood!

At Organic Air Tree and Shrub Care, we get to the root of the problem. Literally. This is because most problems visible above ground, whether dying branches or attacks from pests, are the result of a root-related disorder. Once that disorder is addressed, the tree can begin its path to recovery.

Root disorders generally fall into two categories: stem-girdling roots, and general root dieback due to lack of available oxygen in the soil.

A stem-girdling root is like a noose that eventually “chokes” and kills a tree. It most often forms when there is excessive soil or mulch piled against the trunk above the root flare. The flare is that outwardly curved region at the base, that many of us used to accentuate in our childhood tree drawings. Now, most newly planted trees go straight down like telephone poles, and the flare is buried. This is bad.

In other words, most new landscape plantings start out with trees and shrubs that are planted too deeply, and eventually lead to plants dying prematurely. Furthermore, once the tree is placed in the planting hole, the original soil from the hole is commonly piled back on top of the ball against the trunk, and then mulch is added. The end result is a root flare that can be four to twelve inches below the soil line. These trees become “time bombs” waiting to die, and the property owner eventually has to bear the expense of planting a new tree.

With regard to root-available oxygen, this is the single most-limiting factor in root development. Roots won’t grow where oxygen is lacking. Soil compaction after construction, naturally heavy clay soils, and deep planting, all affect root-available soil oxygen. As roots die, the plant becomes stressed because the supply of water and nutrients to the canopy is reduced. Much like a malnourished or stressed-out person, a malnourished or stressed-out plant falls prey to attacking organisms (insects and/or fungus).

Organic Air can repair soil oxygen issues and stem-girdling roots with a specialized tool called a Supersonic Air Knife. By using compressed air, soil can be taken away from the base of the trunk so we can surgically remove any malformed roots. Air is then injected deeply into the ground, typically 18 to 24 inches down, to expand pore spaces in the soil (think of a new sponge expanding when put in water). It truly is like a breath of fresh air to a struggling root system.

Aerating is not only good for roots, but it increases the activity of beneficial soil organisms, which also require oxygen. Earthworms and good bacteria and fungi help release vital minerals, such as calcium, iron, and manganese that plants need for proper function. When organic fertilizers are used in conjunction with well-oxygenated soils, the microbe populations explode, bringing even more nutrients to plants. This is different from conventional fertilizers, which focus on nitrogen as the primary nutrient. Most people know that fertilizers can “burn” plant roots if too much is applied. Products such as urea, which is a common source of nitrogen in synthetic fertilizers, can cause dehydration in the soil. That dehydration may also interfere with populations of soil organisms, ultimately having a negative effect on nutrient availability to plants. As microbes fade away due to the continuous use of synthetic fertilizers, there becomes a greater reliance on chemicals to keep plants healthy. Going organic can help break that cycle.

In the end, the secret to healthy plants lies in healthy roots and soil. Organic Air’s combination of Air Knife services and Organic Tree and Shrub Care are unique in the Lorain County and Western Cuyahoga County region. Watch a video of the Air Knife at our web site, www.organicairtsc.com, or call us at 419-668-3457 for a free consultation.

Below is a listing of specifications used by many Northern Ohio municipalities for all new city tree plantings. It is provided by the Ohio Department of Natural Resources Division of Forestry. Note emphasis of removing burlap, twine, and wire basket.
Planting Balled and Burlapped Trees:

1. If not readily apparent, locate root flare by removing twine, burlap, and excess soil.
2. Dig tree hole at least two times wider than the tree ball, with sides sloped to an unexcavated or firm base. Dig hole to a depth so the located root flare, at the first order lateral root, will be at finished grade.
3. Lifting only from the bottom of the root ball, position tree on firm pad so that it is straight and top of root flare is level with the surrounding soil.
4. Remove all twine from the root ball. If present, remove and discard at least the top one half of the wire basket. Burlap shall be removed from the top to a point halfway down the root ball and discarded.
5. With clean, sharp pruning tools, prune off any secondary/adventitious, girdling, and potential girdling roots.
6. Backfill planting hole with existing unamended soil, and thoroughly water.
7. Mulch the entire planting surface with composted bark applied no less than two inches (2″) deep and no more than three inches (3″) deep, leaving three inches (3”) adjacent to the tree trunk free of mulch.

Bernie Car is an ISA Certified Arborist and the owner of Organic Air Tree and Shrub Care. He also serves as a member of the Norwalk Tree Board.

 

Magnolia Warbler

There are many kind of warblers, but one of the most common warblers in Ohio during spring migration is the Magnolia Warbler.  Look for them low in trees where they feed on insects. Males often feed higher up in trees than the females.  These beautiful birds were named by chance when ornithologist Alexander Wilson spotted the bird in a magnolia tree.

 

Water is one of the most important things birders can add to their backyard to attract birds. All bird species need water, and adding one or more water features to your yard will quickly attract feathered friends.  Birds need water for two reasons: drinking and preening. Water helps keep a bird’s body cool both from the inside and outside. Water baths can also remove dust, loose feathers, parasites and other debris from a bird’s plumage. Offering water in your backyard will attract more birds than just food sources, since birds that would not normally visit feeders can be tempted by water features.  Any water is an improvement on a dry backyard, but moving water will attract more birds because the motion catches their eye and they can hear any dripping, sprinkles or splashes. Adding a Water Wiggler dripper, or mister accessory to a standing birdbath adds motion easily. Birdbaths are the fastest, easiest way to add water to your backyard bird habitat. The Rock Pile offers different sizes and styles. Birdbaths come in three basic designs:

  • Pedestal: These classic bird baths stand three to four feet above the ground and include a post-style base on an elevated dish. Pedestal bird baths may be plastic, metal, ceramic or concrete and come in varying decorative designs and colors.
  • Dish: A simple saucer or shallow bowl can be used for a dish bird bath. Dishes can be used at different heights by being placed on the ground, a fence, patio table, stump or steps. Hanging dishes and models that attach to deck railings are also available.
  • Heated: A heated birdbath is essential in colder climates. It takes a great deal of energy to melt snow to drink, and birds willingly visit available water sources all year round. Heater accessories can be added to existing bird baths. Fully heated models are available as well.

For birds to feel comfortable using a bird bath, it should not be more than two or three inches deep. Adding an overturned saucer or level rocks to the center of the bath can add a shallower section or island for birds to use.

Misters

Misters are a favorite way for hummingbirds to find water and they will often hover in a mister repeatedly on a hot day. Misters also provide moving water to attract other birds, and if they are properly positioned they will drip into a bird bath for even more motion.  Misters may be attached to birdbaths or they can come as separate water features. For the best effect, position the mister in a partially shaded area that has several perches available.

Cleaning Water Features for Birds

Water features will attract the most birds when the water is clean and fresh. Standing water features such as bird baths and dishes should be cleaned often, while moving and flowing water will naturally stay fresher and can be cleaned less frequently.

Attracting birds with water is easy, and there are many simple ways to add fresh water to your backyard to entice birds for a drink or a bath.

 

Northern Flickers are large, brown woodpeckers with a gentle expression and handsome black-scalloped plumage. On walks, don’t be surprised if you scare one up from the ground. It’s not where you’d expect to find a woodpecker, but flickers eat mainly ants and beetles, digging for them with their unusual, slightly curved bill. When they fly you’ll see a flash of yellow in the wings and a bright white flash on the rump. Northern Flickers usually excavate nest holes in dead or diseased tree trunks or large branches. Unlike many woodpeckers, flickers often reuse cavities that they or another species excavated in a previous year. Nests are generally placed 6-15 feet off the ground, but on rare occasions can be over 100 feet high. Northern Flickers have been known to nest in old burrows of Belted Kingfishers or Bank Swallows. Northern Flickers eat mainly insects, especially ants and beetles that they gather from the ground. They also eat fruits and seeds, especially in winter. So if you’re lucky, you may see one visit your feeding station.

Click on the play button below to hear the Northern Flicker.

 

Right now you can save on our Suet Special! Choose between three great flavors (Berry Treat, Nutty Treat & Seed Treat) and when you buy one suet cake at regular price, you get one FREE! That’s right! Buy One, Get One FREE! Mix and match flavors and save on your bird’s favorite treat! Limit 6 free suet cakes per visit.

Buy One, Get One Free!*

*on selected varieties

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